My trip to Agra started early. The car was supposed to pick me up at 5am. They came at 4:30am. I quickly finished getting ready then met my driver and his two assistants. Didn't know it took that many people to get me to the train station. We got to the station an hour early. Sheesh! The two assistants kept me company and saw me safely on the train. As the train is moving along I'm watching out the window and seeing all these people squatting on the tracks and off the side of the tracks and I'm thinking, hmm, that's so odd and dangerous. Then I realize what everyone is doing as I notice all their pants are down around their ankles. Yes, it's true. Apparently the train tracks are India's version of a biffy (bathroom in forest for you) only it's right in the middle of everything and everyone can see everyone. Goes right along with not having missed a day of seeing a man taking a leak on the roadside.
I was supposed to get breakfast on the train, so when they brought me crackers and tea I thought, great, I'm going to starve. However, breakfast was brought about 30 minutes later - I got the "non-veg" (all the meals here are either "veg" or "non-veg.") The train ride was 2 hours, and I was met by three more people in Agra (a driver, a guide, and an assistant). I toured the Taj, Agra Fort and Baby Taj, as well as visited a rug factory, a marble in-lay factory, a jewelry store and a leather store. I also had lunch at a 5 star hotel, which was made more interesting when the restaurant flooded during the monsoon rains that had started up. However, the buffet was excellent. I tried a little bit of almost everything they had. I really like all the Indian food I've had, and that's been a lot! When I get tired of Indian food there's plenty of other options - McDonald's delivers here, as well as Domino's and Subway. I've even been to TGIFriday's and Ruby Tuesday, and had some good Chinese food, too.
The train ride home was supposed to leave at 8:30pm, but it was late and didn't leave until 9:30pm. While I was waiting for the train I watched a mother take her 3 yr old daughter over to the edge of the track, pull her pants down, and let her do her business. Even after all I'd seen on the train ride there that morning that was still a shocker!
When I finally got on the train I sat next to an adorable 5 yr old and her mom. She taught me to count 1 to 10 in Hindi and I taught her to count 1 to 10 in Spanish. She also sang me a very long song. Very cute and very well behaved. I got the "non-veg" dinner, which was very good - chicken curry, chana masala (garbanzo beans - really good), rice and nan (kind of like their version of a big tortilla). You're supposed to tear the nan (using only your right hand) and use it to pick up the other food. I've actually gotten pretty good at this.
I had to use the "facilities" on the train ride home. This was a "squat" not a "sit" experience with a hole that was open to the ground. The prior user had left a "long distance delivery" that missed the hole. Needless to say I balanced very carefully. Thankfully all went well - pun intended!
I was met by my same driver and two assistants from the morning run and had a very speedy ride home. After taking a wonderfully cleansing shower I collapsed into bed - very tired from my very full day.